The following is an extended version of the article that appears in our March 2025 issue.
Kuba Kuba manager Ben Bundens (Photo by Jay Paul)
If you’re a Kuba Kuba fan, you’ve almost certainly noticed the tall, fair server who seems to be there all the time. That’s Ben Bundens. He’s a manager, and during his long career in the industry he’s worked at the Cuban-inspired Fan eatery for more than 20 years, though if you ask him about his title, he’ll say he’s “an employee, one amongst many.”
Richmond magazine: How did you land your position at Kuba Kuba?
Ben Bundens: Manny [Mendez], the owner, and I were partners at the old Moondance Saloon, a live music venue on 17th Street. Manny left in 1997 or ’98 to open Kuba Kuba, and we were still running Moondance, which closed in ’99. I was always part-time bartending at Buddy’s and Curbside Cafe, and Manny reached out and asked me to pick up a brunch shift, so I started there. I also still worked at Stella’s and Lulu’s. I finally became full time at Kuba Kuba during the pandemic.
RM: So many good spots! Any others you’d like to mention?
Bundens: Other memorable restaurants I’ve worked at were Millie’s, Amici Ristorante, and I was at Stella’s Lafayette location for its first 10 years. It was originally above Stuffy’s, where Edo’s [Squid] is now. My very first job was at a Baskin-Robbins when I was 13; it was South Carolina, so it was legal [to work at that age].
RM: Why have you stayed at Kuba Kuba?
Bundens: I feel like I make a difference. I do more than just serve; I do scheduling, inventory for Manny and payroll; it’s small enough that I can see the whole picture. It’s satisfying to watch the different parts of the machine work together. The community of employees is very good, there’s always someone to cover if you’re sick, or if you’re a musician and you have a gig. There’s flexibility, and it’s a good work environment. We’re close; we have to know how to hand things off to each other and communicate well.
RM: What are your thoughts on developing a relationship with the kitchen?
Bundens: Treat them like gold. They make our jobs possible. If the kitchen needs something from the freezer, I run back and get it. Not helping them isn’t going to help me in the long run.
RM: What has changed over the years at Kuba Kuba?
Bundens: I don’t know that a lot has changed. We’ve watched people change; we watch children grow up. I’ve gotten high chairs for kids whose parents are now introducing me to [those kids’] fiancees. That’s kind of cool.
RM: What’s your approach to service?
Bundens: I’m always reevaluating that in my mind. The overriding principle is to do unto others like I’d want done to me. I know that some people demand much more, and I try to weigh out the needs of the many without concentrating too much on the few — but also without ignoring anyone; 85% of your attention goes to the person in front of you, 15% is considering the needs of the last customer and the next one.
RM: What work-related growth have you adopted outside of your job?
Bundens: I think just learning to deal with different kinds of people. I’ve learned tolerance, and to pause and listen. Listening is a skill that can always be developed more, no matter how old you get.
RM: What do you miss about older eras of Richmond in general?
Bundens: Well, I miss the Jade Elephant on Grace Street. When I was in college, I’d go to the Biograph Theater, which would have midnight art films on Fridays and Saturdays. People have a totally different way of consuming movies now. And it was kind of fun in the ’90s at Moondance, when the Bottom was really quiet; it didn’t help Moondance’s business at all, but being the only people down there, we could get away with doing anything we wanted. One time, Manny pitched a tent in the middle of 17th Street and cooked a pig out on the sidewalk for our anniversary party.
RM: Are there other important parts of your life that you’d like to mention?
Bundens: I’m on the grand jury of Richmond. I have been for 15 years now; I get called about once every three months. They have a rotating pool of people, and we review the felony indictments to be sure they’re true bills. It’s a check for people being charged for a felony, and I’m glad I do it; I think it’s important to participate in the system. I wish more people participated so they understood it better. When you hear people talking about the news, they often don’t understand how our justice system works. They assume a lot of abuse can occur that there are actually mechanisms to prevent. No, you can’t be charged with something because the D.A. doesn’t like you. There are checks.
RM: How’d you get into that?
Bundens: One of my post-college jobs was as a courier at a law firm, and years later, I was serving one of the attorneys I’d worked for who had become a judge. She asked if I wanted to do it. Anyone can; you go to the clerk and volunteer. You have to have a clean record and have lived in Richmond for a certain amount of time. You learn a lot about the law in this position because you get to ask questions — of the officer, or the presenter of the indictment. It’s interesting and useful.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
