Alt BBQ

Barbecue that breaks the rules

by

FOOD & DRINK

Thanks to a balance between old and new styles of cooking, plus unusual blends of flavors, this is the ’cue that’s a little more “alt.” These spots offer dishes with some flair for all the barbecue nonconformists out there.

BBQ Seitan With Pineapple Cole Slaw

$9.95, Fresca on Addison

Vegans, this one’s for you, though the sandwich can leave even carnivores drooling. Seitan, a popular meat replacement made using flour and water, is made in-house at Fresca and cut into thin strips. The seitan is then tossed in a barbecue sauce that packs some heat but is balanced by a delightful traditional tang. Pineapple slaw is a welcome addition, offering a complementary crunch and an inviting sweetness for a balance of flavors.

Bulgogi

$10, K-Town Kitchen & Bar

This Korean-style barbecue translates to “fire meat,” featuring thinly sliced beef that soaks up every drop of flavor from the marinade. The sauce offers subtle hints of soy, sugar, garlic, onions and ginger. The grilled beef is tender, with slivers of onion and carrots scattered throughout. The bulgogi is served with kimchi, adding a fermented tartness that plays off the sweeter hints of the sauce, along with sprouts and a generous portion of steaming white rice, the perfect companion for any remaining drops of juice.

Smoked Pork Shoulder Taco

$6, Boka Grill South of the James

Combine tacos with barbecue, and you’ve got a cultural combo anyone can appreciate. The pork shoulder is smoked in-house for up to 14 hours, with the caramelized grilled onions providing a sweet counterbalance. The hickory Texas-style barbecue sauce has a tomato base, and it’s a little sweet and a tad bit spicy, with a delicate acidity. The sherry slaw creates a satisfying crunch while adding a tart touch that works well with the vinegar in the barbecue sauce.

Koa Moo Dang

$12.50, Sabai

This traditional Thai street food dish is a staple in Bangkok, but it’s brought to life in Richmond at Sabai. Slow-roasted and marinated with Sabai’s barbecue sauce, the pork has a crispy outside, a tender inside and the tiniest bit of melt-in-your mouth fat. The sweet barbecue sauce has hints of honey. White rice is the base, chicken broth is added on top, and it’s finished with crisp cucumber and a boiled egg cut in half. The dish is served with a side of barbecue sauce featuring soy sauce, ginger and Thai chilies that do not play.