This story has been updated since it first appeared in print.
Leah Branch, executive chef of The Roosevelt
Leah Branch didn’t learn about shoebox lunches until just a few years ago. But as a Black woman and an executive chef leading a modern revival of Southern food at The Roosevelt in Church Hill, she felt an innate connection to the story of both sustenance and survival.
Shoebox lunches were adopted out of necessity, a resourceful way for Black people to ensure that they could eat when traveling during the Jim Crow era. Instead of risking denial of service at restaurants while on the road, Black people packed meals in shoeboxes as a safe way to disguise the contents and ensure their families were fed. The lunches became a symbol of determination and defiance.
For Juneteenth (June 19), Branch and The Roosevelt are harkening back to a time of resilience — as well as responding to current events — by presenting 250 pay-what-you-can shoebox lunches (sold out as of late May). All proceeds will go to supporting local museums, particularly the Black History Museum & Cultural Center of Virginia.
“We were surprised and touched by the response to our lunches,” Branch says. “Seeing how quickly they sold out, we are already plotting some ways to do more of them if we do something like this in the future. We were able to double our donation with the online preorders, and there will be donation opportunities at the restaurant the day of pickup.”
The contents of the lunchboxes: a housemade hibiscus drink in a juice box, black-eyed pea salad, potato salad, compressed watermelon and red velvet trifle, along with a choice of sandwich (pulled pork, crispy chicken or fried mushrooms). All of the base items will be vegan and gluten free. A history page about Juneteenth and a bookmark will be included in each lunchbox.
The Roosevelt will offer pay-what-you-can shoebox lunches for Juneteenth.
“We definitely want to focus on some things that you would see on Juneteenth because people are celebrating that week, and then also, what’s nourishing for someone that they can take with them,” she says. “We want to just make them feel really cared about; I think that’s probably a thing that we think about a lot.”
Juneteenth, also known as Jubilee Day, marks the day in 1865 when U.S. soldiers delivered the news in Texas that slavery had been abolished nearly 2 1/2 years earlier via the Emancipation Proclamation. Although slavery has been illegal in America for over 150 years, its legacy of systemic racism and other societal obstacles continues to have an impact on the Black community, including in the restaurant industry. In recent months, the Trump administration has eliminated diversity, equity and inclusion initiatives from universities and other federally funded entities and discontinued grants and research funding.
Branch says, “With everything that’s going on right now, we really wanted to use the opportunity to see if we could support some museums, because I feel like they really are a place where we can focus some of our care right now.”
In addition, on June 20 and 21, The Roosevelt will host multicourse Juneteenth dinners (walk-ins welcome) with a prix fixe menu including an amuse bouche, small plate, entree and dessert for $50.
A Chesterfield native, Branch has been observing Juneteenth and the heritage it represents through her role as a chef. In 2023, local food historian Deb Freeman joined Branch for a night of storytelling and shared plates, and last year, Branch honored Leni Sorensen, a chef who operates the Indigo House in Crozet, during a special event. Simultaneously, The Roosevelt has been uplifting Black hospitality and culinary leaders. For this year’s Juneteenth dinners, Branch is joined by Wine Director Troy Hancock, part of the team at the restaurant for the past five years and one of the few Black sommeliers (they represent just 12% of the total) in the country.
Branch says of tapping into the past, “I’m just a little Black nerd that’s grateful to have an excuse to study these things and [consider] what to do with that information that’s interactive. I think that’s why food is such a great medium to discover some history.”
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