Meadows break up Grayson Highlands State Park’s forested paths.
Richmond has a tendency to hold onto the heat of summer well into fall. This “second summer” effect means early autumn is the perfect time to seek higher ground, catch a cool breeze and experience a true Virginia fall.
One of the best spots is located on the commonwealth’s North Carolina border at Grayson Highlands State Park in Grayson County. The park’s otherworldly terrain, wild ponies, epic views, and a newly renovated campground and facilities are well worth the cross-state trek.
Peak Amenities
With its tallest point — Little Pinnacle — at 5,089 feet, Grayson Highlands boasts the highest elevation of any state park in Virginia, making it home to conifers like red spruce and Fraser fir, but also a mix of birch, beech, maple and oak trees. The landscape changes dramatically between regions in the 4,520-acre state park; there are rolling meadows, rocky outcrops, high mountain pastures and boreal forests to get lost in.
Closed for a year and a half during renovations, the state park’s campground and visitor center reopened in May, and accommodations have been booking up steadily since. (Pro tip: Book months in advance to get the accommodations and dates you want.)
The newly updated Hickory Ridge Campground has 66 campsites (28 “primitive” tent sites and 38 sites with electric and water hookups for recreational vehicles), one group camping site, and four yurts. Each campsite has been enhanced with new fire pits, picnic tables and lantern hooks. The Chestnut Hollow Equestrian Campground serves those who want to explore the trails via horseback.
I was able to snag one of the tent sites for two nights in late June, so my husband, three kids (2, 4, 7) and I went to explore a place that has been on my bucket list. We scoped out the campsite upgrades and renovated visitor center — the midcentury building has a new layout and expanded merchandise in the gift shop. This month, the campground is debuting a hands-on learning space, complete with a kids’ play area, musical instrument exhibit and more.
An overlook decorated with high-elevation rhododendrons, one of the park’s iconic flowers
Hit the Trail
Aside from the Appalachian Trail, which cuts through the state park, Grayson Highlands includes a network of 17 trails. More than half of the paths are classified as moderate difficulty, so hiking is for those who can handle uneven terrain and inclines. We tackled two of the “moderate” hikes with our kids and all three were able to manage the terrain, but they all left with an assortment of scrapes, scratches and boo-boos.
On our first morning, we set out at 7 a.m. to hike Rhododendron Trail to the Appalachian Trail. This easy, kid-friendly hike is in one of the areas where you can spot wild ponies, so we went in search of them before other hikers were on the trail — and so our rowdy children didn’t wake campers at neighboring tent sites.
From the campground, we drove several minutes down the road to the Massie Gap parking lot and took the 0.8-mile walk through meadows dotted with wildflowers. Dozens of bunnies hopped about as my kids squealed with joy, trying to keep up with them.
When we arrived at a fork where the trail becomes the Appalachian Trail and continues up the mountain as a horse path, my oldest eyed a large rock outcrop nearby. We let the kids hop on the boulders and climb the nearby rock face, while taking in panoramic views of the highlands.
We sadly did not see any wild ponies from up high. But according to our campsite neighbors, the ponies were further up the way on Horse Trail North. Next time, when our children are older (and less weary), we will venture further in search of the elusive herd.
Ponies and Peaceful Nights
While the state park’s terrain and flora make it unique, it’s the wild ponies that Grayson Highlands has become known for. Although they are called “wild,” the ponies are not native to the area. They’re a feral herd that was brought to the state park in 1974 to prevent reforestation of the bald highlands, and they are managed by the Wilburn Ridge Pony Association.
Our two-night adventure was well worth the five-hour trek. When not exploring the trails, we were happy to loll at our campsite. The kids played in the bushes and swung in the hammock. We cooked sloppy Joes and campfire pizzas. We roasted marshmallows and drank hot cocoa. And during a rainstorm, we cuddled and played games in the safety of our tent.
As we packed up the van on our last morning, my oldest asked, “When can we come back?” After all, there was so much more for us to see and do: the sprawling network of trails, Cabin Creek waterfall, panoramic views from Twin Pinnacles, the Appalachian Trail and overnight backpacking to neighboring Mount Rogers National Recreation Area.
“We will be back soon, I promise,” I said.
