The West Virginia State Capitol
Approach Charleston — roughly five hours’ drive from Richmond — from any direction, and you’ll pass through waterfall-laden gorges that highlight the capital city’s setting on the sparkling Kanawha River surrounded by forested green peaks. It’s a true mountain town, paired with the impressive amenities of the largest city in West Virginia. Here are the sights you won’t want to miss.
The Capitol
Nearly as pretty as the surrounding mountains is Charleston’s gleaming, gold-domed Capitol building. It’s one of the first things visitors notice when arriving from the east — it’s hard to miss, especially if the sun is reflecting off the dome’s surface. The 292-foot-tall structure is a highlight of the sylvan West Virginia Capitol Complex, where you can also visit the governor’s mansion and the popular West Virginia State Museum.
Inside the museum, coal mining (once the state’s largest industry) is a major theme; when you’re done, take a moment to pause at the Coal Miner Memorial statue outside. Other highlights include a gymnastics leotard worn by Fairmont, West Virginia-born Mary Lou Retton and former Sen. Robert Byrd’s bluegrass recording “Mountain Fiddler.”
The Sunrise Carriage Trail
Get Outside
Tourists don’t have to head far from the city to get out into nature: The Sunrise Carriage Trail, a 1.4-mile gravel route, starts at the riverfront and ascends 200 feet. Blanketed in forest and other greenery, you hardly realize that you’re so near downtown Charleston, just over the river, until you see glimpses of buildings through gaps in the trees.
Want to get even closer to the water? Join the walkers and joggers along the city’s Kanawha River Trail. Time a stroll just right to enjoy entertainment at the Haddad Riverfront Park amphitheater. Get out on the water by renting a kayak or taking a Gold Dome River Cruise. Further out from town, Kanawha State Park offers over 60 miles of hiking and biking trails.
Downtown Eats and Music
Charleston’s downtown district is agreeably compact; it’s easy to park and wander the streets. Start the day at Haystax, one of the city’s newest eateries. Owner Mark Anthony, a former Las Vegas executive chef, was looking for the right spot in Appalachia to open a restaurant focused on nutritious and vegan-friendly food options, and Charleston had the vibe he was looking for.
There is also a wide variety of food at Capitol Market, open 365 days a year. The indoor-outdoor marketplace is packed with local merchants as well as several restaurants and cafes. Sit-down Italian joint Soho’s anchors one end of the site, and you’ll find sushi, barbecue, chocolate and more as you wander through the old railroad depot now transformed into one of the area’s favorite meetup spots.
A few blocks south of the market, more restaurants and shops line Charleston’s main drag, Capitol Street. Chain offerings include Pies & Pints, specializing in pizza and beer, and local ventures such as Fife Street Brewing, featuring craft brews like “Brut Scootin’ Boogie” and “The Ghost of Dank Williams.” A block away, Taylor Books pulls triple duty as a combination cafe, bookstore and live music venue.
More Live Tunes (and Some Shopping)
In addition to the riverside amphitheater performances, Charleston’s music scene thrives at numerous indoor concert venues. The more than 40-year-old Mountain Stage, where audiences can participate in a live taping of headline acts for NPR broadcasts, is the most prominent, but smaller and cozier event spaces abound.
At Folklore Music Exchange, performers strum and sing their tunes on a stage surrounded by a guitar store. Owners and native West Virginians Justin and Jodie Puett (with store dog Nirita) have expanded the shop twice in the seven years they’ve been in Charleston.
Not far from the Capitol building, The Empty Glass features a roster of musicians nearly every night. You might be able to get your live music fix while shopping for vintage vinyl at Elk City Records or buying hand-printed T-shirts and other progressive paraphernalia at Kin Ship Goods; both retailers often feature musical acts on weekends.
