The battleship USS Wisconsin is berthed at Nauticus in Norfolk. (Photo by Ali Zaman)
Norfolk, the second most populated city in Virginia, is the home of Naval Station Norfolk, the largest naval base in the world. But as the cultural center of the Hampton Roads area, the low-lying, water-locked Norfolk — affectionately nicknamed Mermaid City U.S.A. — holds treasures and experiences beyond its battleship and military pageantry, although there’s plenty of that, too.
Ghent With It
The city’s hip Ghent district is Norfolk’s beating heart. Its mix of galleries, restaurants, boutiques and diverse shopping experiences makes it a day trip on its own. At the center is the Chrysler Museum of Art. With more than 50 galleries — including a special studio that houses its unparalleled collection of glass art — the Chrysler holds pivotal works by Warhol, Rothko and Pollack in its contemporary collection, along with a rich assemblage of historical and experimental photography, and it has hosted exclusive showings of, among others, Rembrandt’s etchings, Rodin’s sculpture and the nightmarish art of Edvard Munch. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, the museum closed in March, forcing the public to make do with images of its holdings at chrysler.org. They range from 80 items of works from ancient Egypt to 121 pieces from contemporary and modern artists, as well as activities for kids and housebound adults, too, including printouts of items to color such as a Congolese mask or a Tiffany vase. At press time, the museum was scheduled to reopen fully on June 20.
The Naro Expanded Cinema showcases art house, independent and second-run films, as well as screenings featuring cult movies, documentaries and the best in world cinema. It’s strictly for the Naro-minded, as they say. The theater has been staging virtual screenings during the pandemic, with a portion of the proceeds benefiting the Naro. See the lineup and check for other updates at narocinema.com.
While it stages shows across Virginia, the Virginia Opera makes its home at the Harrison Opera House. Founded in 1974, and since dubbed the official opera company of Virginia by the General Assembly, it’s known for its trailblazing educational outreach program. The company performs four major productions a year and has featured some of the best singers in the world on its stage, from Luciano Pavarotti to Beverly Sills. It is scheduled to open its 2020/2021 season in October with Verdi’s “Rigoletto.”
The Chrysler Museum of Art (Photo by Sarah Hauser)
Downtown
The oldest remaining U.S. theater financed, designed and constructed by African Americans, the Attucks Theatre was fully restored in 2004, and it celebrated its 100th anniversary last year. Legends such as Ella Fitzgerald, Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway and Nat King Cole played here, and the 624-seat former vaudeville venue still hosts plays and recitals, enjoys a popular jazz series, and has presented performances from the storied likes of Wynton Marsalis and Al Jarreau. See sevenvenues.com for performance updates. The Virginia Stage Co., founded in 1968, showcases a vibrant annual season of plays and musicals — everything from Shakespeare’s “The Tempest” to “Guys and Dolls” — in the historic Wells Theatre. See vastage.org for the latest information.
The Generic Theater, housed in the basement of Chrysler Hall, has been a destination for the new, the edgy and the experimental since 1981. Originally seeded by the city of Norfolk, this is the place where local audiences first saw the work of now-legendary playwrights like Harold Pinter and Lanford Wilson. For productions and any changes in schedules, see generictheater.org.
History
Nauticus, the National Maritime Center, offers opportunities to tour the imposing USS Wisconsin, the last battleship built in the U.S., and experience an assortment of nautical history exhibits, interactive displays and educational programs. It has been closed during the pandemic but has offered virtual experiences at 11 a.m. on weekdays on Facebook, and various videos and interactive options are available on its website, nauticus.org.
The MacArthur Memorial in the old city hall contains the tomb of the late Gen. Douglas MacArthur (whose mother was born in Norfolk), plus a library of personal papers and photographs — even his iconic corncob pipe. You’ll like it so much that you shall return, but you’ll have to wait until pandemic restrictions are eased: It’s closed for now. Check first at macarthurmemorial.org. This is also where you’ll find a robust lineup of podcasts, including one that offers a tour of the facility and another that examines the general’s history.