When the COVID-19 pandemic shut down the world five years ago, independent restaurants were among the businesses hit hardest. With dining rooms shuttered for 10 weeks and capacity limited for another year, some restaurants closed permanently. The majority survived on cobbled-together programs of takeout orders, outdoor seating and government Paycheck Protection funding until social distancing and venue restrictions were lifted in May 2021.
Five years on, RVA restaurants are once again celebrated — in naming Richmond the best city to visit in 2024, USA Today cited its “diverse, chef-driven food scene” — but locals bemoan lingering higher menu prices and worry that a handful of high-profile closures hint at ongoing challenges behind the scenes. Our food editor, Eileen Mellon, sat down with owners, reached out to their staffs and checked in with industry experts to find out what’s happening in Richmond’s restaurants (P. 82). Her account of steep real estate prices and skyrocketing food costs shows local restaurants are, in many ways, a microcosm of today’s wider world.
Another story in this issue grounds larger events in Richmond. A lawyer and a member of the Virginia House of Burgesses, Patrick Henry was one of the American Colonies’ leading advocates for independence. In his most famous speech, which took place on March 23, 1775, at what is now called Historic St. John’s Church, Henry reportedly stated, “I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!” The Revolutionary War began less than a month later.
Henry’s speech is being commemorated as part of an ongoing celebration of Virginia’s role in the United States’ founding — itself integral to the national festivities marking the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence and subsequent birth of the country. The Virginia American Revolution 250 Commission is sponsoring hundreds of events across the commonwealth through 2031. In Richmond this month, they include exhibitions at the Virginia Museum of History & Culture, speech reenactments, and a preview of documentarian Ken Burns’ upcoming film, “The American Revolution.” Writer Harry Kollatz Jr. describes the semiquincentennial (the tongue twister means “250th”) celebration on Page 74 and focuses on Henry’s speech on Page 34.
Also in this issue, we profile arts patron and self-proclaimed party girl Patsy Pettus and preview renowned food writer Ruth Reichl’s appearance at All Henrico Reads. Plus, we explore summer camp options, check out unique getaway stays and much more. Enjoy!
