The stele of Thonis-Heracleion is among the artifacts on display at “Treasures of Ancient Egypt: Sunken Cities,” at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts through Jan. 18, 2021. (Photo courtesy Virginia Museum of Fine Arts)
The special exhibits area of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts is on the lower level, which seems especially appropriate when visiting the “Treasures of Ancient Egypt: Sunken Cities” exhibit. Descending the stairs and rounding the bend ushers visitors into another world — one that has been submerged in the Mediterranean Sea for more than 1,200 years. Newly arrived from its previous venue, California’s Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum (which was also closed to the public during the pandemic), “Treasures of Ancient Egypt: Sunken Cities” presents works of art inspired by creative contact between Greek and Egyptian culture in the Ptolemaic period, from about 305-30 B.C. This time was known as the last dynasty of ancient Egypt.
A video plays in the waiting area, and again in a darkened room where there are chairs spaced for social distancing. The filtered light throughout much of the gallery helps bring to life the artifacts that represent the long-lost cities of Thonis-Heracleion and Canopus. Apparently, the Egyptian city of Thonis and the Greek city of Heracleion were the two cultures’ combined names for the same geographical location — a premier Egyptian port city and center of trade under the Ptolemaic Dynasty. The nearby port city of Canopus and Thonis-Heracleion were also important religious centers, the locations for an annual pilgrimage and ceremony known as the Mysteries of Osiris. Both cities were located on the Nile delta, and at the conclusion of the religious activities, boats were loaded with votive offerings and set sail from Thonis-Heracleion to Canopus.
Featuring artifacts ranging in size from small coins to full-sized statues, this exhibit is wide-ranging and intriguing, with a sense of traipsing on sacred ground as you wander through the dimly lit corridors and galleries. There are everyday objects as well as shrines and religious artifacts. Among my favorite objects were the stele of Thonis-Heracleion, a stele being a stone tablet that records the decrees of a pharaoh; statues of the Egyptian gods Isis and Osiris; a candlelit shrine; and a full-size Apis bull, the only Egyptian deity represented solely in animal form.
I was surprised how many visitors came out for a members-only day. Everyone wore masks, and social distance was maintained with the help of the VMFA staff, who allowed only a few people at a time to enter. There were a few areas, mostly near the beginning of the exhibit, where people piled up perhaps a little too closely, but once you’re past the stele, there is plenty of space to look and contemplate.
For those who want to dive a bit deeper, there are online videos about maritime archaeologist Franck Goddio’s work. Archaeologists began searching Aboukir Bay for traces of the largely forgotten lost cities in 1996, and Goddio led the recovery team. As part of its programming, VMFA will offer a variety of virtual programming resources in conjunction with the exhibition, including a five-part online lecture series in the fall. An audio tour is available, as well as printed guides for adults and families. The latter has activities for children. For families, there will also be a Celebrate African and African American Art: Egypt Family Day on Sunday, Nov. 8.
