The Pig & Pearl (Photo by Ash Daniel)
Sports and cigars: That’s the wheelhouse of The Pig & Pearl, the restaurant and cigar-friendly bar at the corner of Broad and Allison streets offering a 12-foot big-screen showing major games. The sports revelry isn’t the only thing hanging in the air; though only one side of the bar allows smoking, it permeates the entire space.
A Bacon Plate arrives exactly as you’d imagine: multiple strips of bacon on a plate. A few oysters — nine varieties, local and non-, salty to buttery — is another good bar-food starter, but be careful: They aren’t shucked as pristinely as you’d want, teeth be darned. Suitable for watching pigskin punting and passing are the chicken wings, with three types on offer. Hit up the OG, Ode to Anchor Bar; it’s all the things one would expect of a dish dedicated to the original wing bar in Buffalo: drenched — drowning, even — in butter and hot sauce. The Lackdasical [sic] Hipster Moron, described as a turkey Cuban, is a very small, stale and panini-like sandwich with Monterey Jack, very few pickles and a whole host of mustard. No one seems to know where the item’s moniker originated. In an attempt to ask the chef, my server admits to having been employed four weeks yet is uncertain of the chef’s name.
Better is the massive Meaty Mac-N-Cheese, made with Gouda and topped with vinegary shredded pork. Get it to share or take three-fourths of it home.
Go for happy hour, weekdays from 3 to 7 p.m., when most of these items are deeply discounted, or for the selection of 21 cigars, which range from $8 to $22. Then stay for the big game, as that’s probably why you’re there anyway.
Editor’s Note: This is one of five restaurants receiving a new review from Richmond magazine, as a former critic did not submit original work.