The following is an online extra from our June issue, on newsstands now.
Chiles en nogada (Photo by Thinkstock)
This festive dish is usually served in September as a way to celebrate Mexico’s Independence Day (Sept. 16) because of its green, white and red colors that evoke the Mexican flag. Chiles en nogada was invented by nuns in Puebla, Mexico, in 1821 and was presented to the visiting Mexican Army General Agustin de Iturbide on his birthday, Aug. 28. Iturbide was involved in a decisive battle to gain control of Mexico City and signed the Treaty of Cordoba in Veracruz that gave Mexico its independence. On his way back to Mexico City, Iturbide passed through Puebla, and the residents presented him with chiles en nogada, hence its close ties to Mexican Independence Day. Gathering the ingredients for this dish is what brought Monica Chavez into La Milpa after moving to America from Puebla. Chavez would end up saving La Milpa, becoming a co-owner and falling in love with the original owner, Martin Gonzalez. Her recipe for this dish helped spark it all.
“Chiles en nogada is not a difficult dish to prepare, but it does require you to dedicate some time for preparation,” Chavez says. “Your time will be rewarded with a sophisticated, deeply satisfying dish with knockout presentation perfect for a special occasion. Love and attention to detail matter. For a truly special dish, you must make the effort to chop all of the ingredients into uniformly sized pieces, which will give you the most beautiful presentation.”
For the Peppers
- 6 poblano peppers
- 6 eggs
- 1/2 cup flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
For the Nogada (the walnut sauce)
- 1/2 cup goat cheese
- 2 cups walnuts
- 1 1/2 cups milk
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 cup sherry
For the Filling
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1/2 cup white onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
- 1 medium ripe tomato, finely chopped
- 1 pound chopped pork loin
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, cinnamon and a pinch of clove
- 2 small pears chopped in small dices
- 1 small apple chopped in small dices
- 2 peaches chopped in small dices
- 1 piece candied fruit (biznaga)
- 2 tablespoons raisins
- 4 tablespoons almonds, toasted, sliced and blanched
- 2 tablespoons pine nuts
For the Garnish
- 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds
- 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped parsley leaves
Directions
The Peppers
Prepare the poblano peppers by heating a griddle or skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Add the poblanos and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until the skin is blackened and blistered on all sides, about 5 to 7 minutes depending of the size of the peppers. Remove from the griddle as they are done and place in a plastic bag, then let sit for 5 minutes, until the skins are soft enough to be easily removed. Remove the poblanos from the bag, and using your fingers and a small sharp knife, peel and scrape off as much of the blackened skin as possible, (a few black specks don’t matter). Leave the tops on and cut small (2- to 3-inch) slits lengthwise in the poblanos and carefully pull out the seeds without tearing the flesh.
Nogada (the walnut sauce)
Add all the sauce ingredients to a blender and process until thoroughly pureed. Keep in refrigerator until ready to serve.
The Filling
In a medium-size skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the tomato and cook for another minute. Next, add the pork and cook, regularly stirring, until the meat is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Season with all the spices to taste. Now add the fruits, cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the raisins, almonds and pine nuts. Remove from heat.
Carefully stuff the mixture into the peppers through the slit, taking care not to rip the peppers; use toothpicks to hold them together.
Separate the egg yolks from the whites, then add the egg whites to a large bowl. Reserve the egg yolks. Beat the egg whites with an electric beater until the whites fluff up. Add in the salt and the egg yolks and mix until completely incorporated.
Cover the peppers with a thin layer of flour.
Add some oil to a frying pan over medium heat. Dip the stuffed peppers into the flour and then the batter and fry until golden-brown on both sides. Remove from the pan to a paper towel to drain the excess oil.
The Garnish
Transfer the stuffed poblanos to a serving platter. Cover with the walnut sauce and garnish with pomegranate seeds and parsley.
