Sure, nouveau-fusion eateries and fancy coat-and-tie restaurants have their place in the world of midday dining, but quite often what this writer craves most is the kind of laid-back, tucked-away spot that’s short on trendiness and pretense and long on straightforward fare and outstanding value — a place like Table 9.

Owner George Tarasovic is a seasoned Richmond restaurant guy, having worked everywhere from Kuba Kuba to O’Toole’s. Table 9’s name, according to Tarasovic, has nothing to do with the fact that a mere eight tables fill his diminutive, triangular-shaped eatery. Rather, it’s an homage to a particular restaurant table from his past — one used as a shift-end retreat for him and his fellow workers.

George’s grandfather was Czechoslovakian, and his influence on the brief, no-frills menu is apparent. The pierogi-and-sautéed-onions appetizer was tempting, but I went instead for the kielbasa and sauerkraut, the restaurant’s self-proclaimed signature dish. This belly-filling bowl is full of juicy kielbasa slices tossed with sauerkraut flavored with piquant caramelized apple and garlic cloves. Sopping up the succulent remaining juices with toasted bread is an absolute must.  

With only two varieties of cookies available, the dessert list was rather skimpy. No matter, though, considering the terrific crispy-chewy, chocolate-walnut cookie for just 75 cents.

Table 9’s honest-to-goodness grub, terrific value and laid-back attitude have me sold, and I can’t wait to return. I just hope those eight little tables aren’t already packed.

Table 9
2001 Park Ave., 353-2205

Hours
Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Prices
Salads and appetizers $3.50 to $11.95. Sandwiches, dogs and entrées $2.95 to $7.95.